The 3 real risks of free public Wi-Fi
A honeypot is a fake hotspot set up with an innocuous-sounding name, like “Free Airport Wi-Fi,” built to capture the data of anyone who connects. An evil twin goes further: it copies the name and login page of a legitimate network, and your device may join it automatically if you’ve connected to a network with that name before. Phones and laptops routinely reconnect to familiar network names without asking, which is exactly what makes the trick work.
There’s also a version of this attack that compromises real hotspots instead of faking one. In July 2026, security firm ReliaQuest reported that attackers had gained administrative control of Wi-Fi gateway equipment at hotels and conference centers in multiple U.S. cities, then used that access to redirect guest traffic to fraudulent Microsoft login pages. Microsoft found that guests on the affected networks were served fake browser and Windows update prompts, a social-engineering technique called ClickFix, that installed malware when clicked. That malware didn’t stop at stealing credentials: it pulled browser session cookies and login tokens directly off infected devices, letting attackers into accounts like Microsoft 365 without ever seeing a password. Don’t click “install” or paste a command into a terminal window because a Wi-Fi login page told you to. Legitimate connectivity problems don’t get fixed that way.
What HTTPS doesn’t hide
HTTPS protects the content of your traffic, what you type and what a site sends back, but it doesn’t hide where you’re going. Two things about your connection still travel in plain text on most public Wi-Fi: your DNS lookup, which translates a site’s name into its address, and the “SNI” field your browser sends when it first connects to a secure site. Both broadcast the domain, so someone on the same network can see you’re on your bank’s site or a health portal, even though they can’t see what you type once you’re there. A newer standard called Encrypted Client Hello closes that gap, but it’s still rolling out unevenly and isn’t yet supported in Safari, so the leak is live for a lot of iPhone and Mac users today.
A smaller, separate risk: some older apps and smart-home companion apps still send data over plain HTTP or don’t properly verify they’re talking to the real server, which an attacker on the same network could exploit. Browsers now block most old-fashioned unencrypted page elements automatically, so this is less common than it was a decade ago, but it hasn’t disappeared.
Captive portals collecting more than a Wi-Fi password
Most public Wi-Fi login pages ask for something before they let you online: an email address, a phone number, or a Facebook or Google login. Retailers, malls, and other venues build guest Wi-Fi specifically to collect contact information for marketing and to sell ad placements on the login page itself. Nobody’s hacking you here. The network is doing exactly what it was built to do, just not for your benefit. There’s no fix that avoids this entirely if you want the free Wi-Fi. Using a secondary email address for these logins, and skipping the “sign in with Facebook” shortcut, at least keeps the data from getting tied to your main accounts.
Is a personal hotspot safer than public Wi-Fi?
A personal hotspot is much safer than public Wi-Fi. When you tether to your phone’s cellular connection, you’re the only one on that network, which prevents you from encountering honeypots or evil twins. It also makes a far less attractive target for hackers than a hotel or conference network, since breaking into one person’s hotspot doesn’t hand over access to every other guest’s traffic the way a shared gateway would. To keep your phone’s hotspot safe, set a strong password, rather than the default, and save it to your password manager.
5 ways to stay safe on public Wi-Fi
Before connecting, confirm the network’s actual name with an employee rather than trusting whatever shows up in your Wi-Fi list. Turn off automatic connection to open networks in your device settings, so you’re always choosing the network on purpose rather than joining whatever your phone picks for you.
Xfinity’s “xfinitywifi” hotspots are a legitimate service that runs off the routers of nearby Comcast subscribers. The same caution still applies: treat it like any other public network. Comcast customers who’d rather not share their router’s bandwidth with other Xfinity users can turn that sharing off in their account’s Wi-Fi settings.
Keep your connection secure with HTTPS
Stick to sites that use HTTPS, confirmed by the lock icon or “https” in your browser’s address bar. It’s the baseline protection, but as covered above it doesn’t hide which sites you’re visiting or secure apps that skip encryption. A VPN covers both.
Use a VPN
A VPN encrypts your entire connection, including your DNS requests, routing them through trusted servers before a compromised hotel gateway ever sees them. Based on our testing, Surfshark is our Techlicious Top Pick for the best VPN overall: fast, covers unlimited devices, and affordable. NordVPN is the pick if you need rock-solid uptime for work travel, with post-quantum encryption built in as a hedge against future decryption risks. And the free tier of Proton VPN is a solid, no-cost option if you only need to protect one device. For the full comparison, see our guide to the best VPNs for protecting your privacy.
Turn on two-factor authentication, or better, passkeys
Enable two-factor authentication everywhere it’s offered, so a stolen password or session alone isn’t enough to get into your accounts. Where it’s available, a passkey is an even stronger option: it can’t be phished or stolen the way a password or a one-time code can, because there’s no shared secret to intercept in the first place. Check out the pros and cons of each type of 2FA in our guide.
Disable file sharing
Larger, well-run public networks, major hotel chains and airports, typically turn on “client isolation,” which keeps connected devices from seeing each other. Plenty of smaller or poorly configured networks, a coffee shop, a rental’s guest Wi-Fi, don’t. On those, if your computer is set to share files, a stranger on the same network could potentially reach them. It’s convenient at home; on public Wi-Fi it’s just an open door you don’t need. To disable sharing:
Windows 11: Settings > Network & Internet > Advanced network settings > Advanced sharing settings, then turn off “File and printer sharing” and “Network discovery” and save.
Mac: Apple menu > System Settings > General > Sharing. Below Content & Media, turn off File Sharing. Full steps are in Apple’s support guide if your menu looks different.
Public Wi-Fi safety FAQ
Is public Wi-Fi still dangerous in 2026?
It’s safer for casual browsing than it used to be, since HTTPS now covers most everyday traffic. What’s still real: attackers compromising hotel and conference Wi-Fi hardware directly, your browsing history leaking through DNS and SNI even on HTTPS sites, and captive portals harvesting your contact information for marketing. Treat public Wi-Fi as low-risk for reading the news and higher-risk for banking, work email, or anything you don’t want tied to your identity.
Does public Wi-Fi sell my data?
Often, yes, indirectly. Many captive portals are built specifically to collect emails, phone numbers, or social logins for marketing, not to secure your connection. It’s legal and disclosed in the terms you click past, but it’s still your data being monetized.
How can I protect my information when connecting to a public Wi-Fi hotspot?
Confirm the network name before connecting, stick to HTTPS sites, use a VPN, enable two-factor authentication or passkeys, and turn off file sharing. Those five habits cover most common attacks described above.
Are Xfinity Wi-Fi hotspots safe to use?
Yes. It’s a legitimate Comcast service, not a spoofed network, though the same public Wi-Fi precautions still apply.
How do I know if a public Wi-Fi network is legitimate?
Ask an employee for the exact network name (SSID) rather than guessing from the list on your device, and be suspicious of any network that asks you to install software, run a script, or enter credentials you wouldn’t normally give out to get online.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by Techlicious.
]]>Many of those commented that they’d never come across many of the shortcuts before and it’s fair to say there’s a heap of stuff that will have passed by a good number of us. Sure, Ctrl+Z saves us all daily. But your Windows or Mac keyboard is hiding better tricks. Let’s find dive in.
CTRL-SHIFT-T
If you’ve accidentally closed a tab in your web browser, just press Ctrl-Shift-T (or press Cmd-Shift-T if you’re using a Mac) and, hey presto, you’ll be able to pick up where you left off. This saves you having to trawl through your browsing history and you can press it multiple times to retrieve all the tabs you need. What’s more, if you close the entire browser by mistake, don’t fret. Just open a fresh browser window, use the keyboard shortcut again and all the tabs will be restored.
Windows-V
You’re not restricted to pasting the last thing you copied. Instead, you can press Windows logo key-V and open the Windows Clipboard History where multiple items can be stored and used. You may be prompted to turn on the clipboard history: if you can’t see your clipboard, it’ll be because it’s not active. You can also pin items and these will be retained when you restart your PC.
ALT+0176
Need the degree symbol to indicate a temperature? You won’t find it on the keyboard but if you hold down ALT and type 0176, it’ll appear. Hot stuff, eh? Just note this will only work on keyboards that have a 10-key numeric pad. There’s actually a lot more of these. Get the Euro symbol with ALT+0128, ALT-0151 for an Em-dash and 14 for a musical note, for instance. They’re worth exploring.
Control-Shift-Esc
Ok, so I am familiar with this one but it’s definitely worth sharing. Press Control-Shift-Esc and you can instantly open Windows Task Manager. From there, you can force close those troublesome apps, check your system’s resources and decide which programs you want to load on startup — the fewer of these, the faster your computer will boot.
Control-+
Struggling to read something on a webpage when you’re using a browser? Then enlarge the text using this handy shortcut: press Control and +. If you’re using a Mac, use Command and + instead but the effect is the same. When you’re done and want to return to normal, just press Control and – (or press Command and –) to make everything smaller again.
Control-K
This one works in Word, Google Docs, LibreOffice, email apps and more. Just highlight text, press Control-K and you can insert a hyperlink. If you use this one Chrome, Edge or Firefox, you can jump to the address or search bar where you can immediately start typing. A nice little timesaver.
Command-Shift-Up Arrow
This is a great keyboard shortcut to use in a word processor. Press Command-Shift-Up Arrow and you’ll be able to select all of the text above your cursor position. You can also press Command-Shift-Down Arrow: this will select all of the text below your cursor position. Don’t stop there either. Press Command-Shift-Left Arrow to select all text to the left and press Command-Shift-Right Arrow for all text to the right.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by TomsGuide.
]]>Chrome has faced legal challenges over its tracking practices. A 2024 lawsuit revealed the browser was collecting data even in incognito mode, which led to a settlement requiring Google to delete significant amounts of browsing data.
Chrome’s default settings lean toward data collection rather than privacy protection. Many tracking features are enabled automatically, and disabling them requires navigating through settings that most users never explore. Here’s what Chrome tracks and which settings you can change to limit data collection.
Turn off usage tracking
Chrome collects data about how you use the browser: which features you click, how long pages take to load, which extensions you install. This helps Google improve Chrome, but it also creates a detailed profile of your behavior.
Open Chrome’s settings by clicking the three-dot menu and selecting Settings. Under You and Google, select Sync and Google services, and toggle off “Help improve Chrome’s features and performance” under Other Google services.
Reduce ad tracking and personalization
Google makes money from targeted advertising, which is why it wants your data. You can’t stop ads entirely through Chrome settings, but you can prevent personalized targeting. In Settings, go to Privacy and security, and Ads privacy. You’ll see three options: Ad topics, Site-suggested ads, and Ad measurement. Make sure all three of these are toggled off to stop Chrome from sharing data with advertisers for personalized ads.
For complete ad blocking, you could considering installing an extension. These block ads across websites and prevent many tracking scripts. Be aware that Google occasionally breaks ad blocker functionality through Chrome updates, so you may need to switch blockers if needed.
Limit browsing history tracking
Chrome tracks which websites you visit, even in incognito mode. Google settled a lawsuit over this practice and had to delete collected data, but there’s no guarantee they’ve stopped entirely. In Settings, go to You and Google, Sync and Google Services, and toggle off “Make searches and browsing better.” This reduces Chrome’s ability to track which sites you visit.
Also turn off “Enhanced spell check” in the same section. When enabled, this sends everything you type to Google’s servers for spell checking. Disabling it stops the spell checker but prevents Google from seeing what you’re typing on every website. Go to You and Google, Sync and Google services and toggle off “Improve search suggestions.” This stops Chrome from sending your searches to Google separately from whatever search engine you’re actually using.
Delete browsing data automatically
Chrome stores browsing history, cookies, and cached files locally. Deleting this data doesn’t stop Chrome from collecting it, but it removes the local record. You can choose what you’d like to delete, whether that’s your browsing history, cached files, or even your download history.
To do this, go to Settings, Privacy and security, and Delete browsing data. You can choose to delete your data from the last fifteen minutes to all time. Then confirm by clicking the blue “Delete Data” button at the bottom right of the screen.
Block third-party cookies and trackers
Third-party cookies let websites and advertisers track you across the internet. Blocking them reduces cross-site tracking significantly. Go to Settings, Privacy and security, Third-party cookies and toggle on “Block third-party cookies.” Some website features may break, but most sites still work fine.
In the same Third-party cookies menu, toggle on “Send a ‘Do not track’ request with your browsing traffic.” Not all websites honor this request, but some do, and it doesn’t hurt to enable it.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by TomsGuide.
]]>Many of those commented that they’d never come across many of the shortcuts before and it’s fair to say there’s a heap of stuff that will have passed by a good number of us. Sure, Ctrl+Z saves us all daily. But your Windows or Mac keyboard is hiding better tricks. Let’s find dive in.
CTRL-SHIFT-T
If you’ve accidentally closed a tab in your web browser, just press Ctrl-Shift-T (or press Cmd-Shift-T if you’re using a Mac) and, hey presto, you’ll be able to pick up where you left off. This saves you having to trawl through your browsing history and you can press it multiple times to retrieve all the tabs you need. What’s more, if you close the entire browser by mistake, don’t fret. Just open a fresh browser window, use the keyboard shortcut again and all the tabs will be restored.
Windows-V
You’re not restricted to pasting the last thing you copied. Instead, you can press Windows logo key-V and open the Windows Clipboard History where multiple items can be stored and used. You may be prompted to turn on the clipboard history: if you can’t see your clipboard, it’ll be because it’s not active. You can also pin items and these will be retained when you restart your PC.
ALT+0176
Need the degree symbol to indicate a temperature? You won’t find it on the keyboard but if you hold down ALT and type 0176, it’ll appear. Hot stuff, eh? Just note this will only work on keyboards that have a 10-key numeric pad. There’s actually a lot more of these. Get the Euro symbol with ALT+0128, ALT-0151 for an Em-dash and 14 for a musical note, for instance. They’re worth exploring.
Control-Shift-Esc
Ok, so I am familiar with this one but it’s definitely worth sharing. Press Control-Shift-Esc and you can instantly open Windows Task Manager. From there, you can force close those troublesome apps, check your system’s resources and decide which programs you want to load on startup — the fewer of these, the faster your computer will boot.
Control-+
Struggling to read something on a webpage when you’re using a browser? Then enlarge the text using this handy shortcut: press Control and +. If you’re using a Mac, use Command and + instead but the effect is the same. When you’re done and want to return to normal, just press Control and – (or press Command and –) to make everything smaller again.
Control-K
This one works in Word, Google Docs, LibreOffice, email apps and more. Just highlight text, press Control-K and you can insert a hyperlink. If you use this one Chrome, Edge or Firefox, you can jump to the address or search bar where you can immediately start typing. A nice little timesaver.
Command-Shift-Up Arrow
This is a great keyboard shortcut to use in a word processor. Press Command-Shift-Up Arrow and you’ll be able to select all of the text above your cursor position. You can also press Command-Shift-Down Arrow: this will select all of the text below your cursor position.
Don’t stop there either. Press Command-Shift-Left Arrow to select all text to the left and press Command-Shift-Right Arrow for all text to the right.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by TomsGuide.
]]>One way to make your system tray always display all your app icons is to drag and drop your icons onto the tray. This makes those icons stick to the tray, and these icons won’t go into the up-arrow icon menu.
To do that, in your system tray, click the up-arrow icon to see your hidden icons. On the icon list, find the icon you want to keep visible in your system tray. Drag this icon and drop it alongside other icons in your system tray. When you do the above, the system tray accepts your dragged icon and keeps it visible all the time in your tray. This icon will never go into the up-arrow icon menu. You can repeat the above step to bring all your icons to the main system tray.
Use an Option in Windows 11’s Settings App
Another way to ensure your system tray always displays all your icons is by changing an option in your PC’s Settings app. Here, you turn on the toggles for the icons you wish to appear in your tray, and your tray always displays those icons. To do that, open Settings by pressing Windows+i. Select Personalization > Taskbar in Settings. Expand the “Other System Tray Icons” menu. Here, turn on the toggles for the icons that you always want to make visible in your system tray. As soon as you turn on the toggle for an icon, you’ll find that that icon is now visible in your system tray (if the icon is available). Keep doing that until you’ve enabled all your app icons. Then, close Settings, and you’ll find all your icons are now available in your system tray. And that’s how you ensure you have instant access to your favorite apps from your system tray in Windows 11.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by HowtoGeek.
]]>Most of the time, Microsoft saves a copy in its unsaved documents folder. However, if you can’t find your file, there are two additional places to look. I will walk you through three ways to find your unsaved document and provide tips on setting up AutoSave, so you’ll never lose a Word doc again.
Method 1: Use the Recover Unsaved Documents option
If Word or your computer crashes, you should be presented with the option to recover your document the next time you open Word. However, if that doesn’t happen, you can easily find your recovered document by following these steps.
When you open your recovered file, a message at the top will remind you that it’s a recovered document. You’ll then be prompted to save it.
Method 2: Manually search for your unsaved file
If you don’t find your file using the steps above, try searching for it manually.
On a Windows PC:
On a Mac:
Method 3: Find a backup copy of your file
In addition to recovery files, Microsoft Word makes backup copies of the files you’re working on every 10 minutes. Here’s how to find your backup file.
While the default is for Word to save every 10 minutes, you can set it to save as often as every minute. If you want to keep your files on your computer (instead of in the cloud), I recommend setting it to two minutes to minimize loss. (Scroll down for an online option to automatically save your work in real-time.)
Preventing lost work in the future with AutoSave
If you like the security of knowing you’ll always have the most current version of your Word documents, you should use “AutoSave.” With AutoSave, all changes are saved in real-time to OneDrive, so even if your computer crashes, you’ll still have access to your written work as it existed at the time of the crash. Just choose OneDrive as the save location when you create or save a copy of a file, and AutoSave immediately activates.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by Techlicious.
]]>But over time, I’ve also found that a lot of Windows PCs that feel slow aren’t actually being held back by the hardware. They’re being dragged down by the software and habits surrounding it. Too many apps launching at startup, background processes that never stop running, bloated storage, messy browser habits, and workflows that add friction every time you sit down to do something. I’ve run into this on family members’ PCs, and I’ve run into it on my own. The machine wasn’t always underpowered. A PC can feel slow long before the hardware is the bottleneck. Once I started cleaning up those smaller issues, Windows didn’t suddenly become a benchmark monster, but it did start to feel faster in the ways that matter day to day.
Startup apps were making Windows slow before I even started working
Startup apps are usually the first thing I check when a Windows PC feels slow. The problem isn’t just boot time, although that’s the most obvious place you’ll notice it. If too many apps launch the second you sign in, Windows has to load the desktop while also opening chat apps, game launchers, updaters, cloud tools, and utilities you may not even use that day.
That clutter can stick around after startup, too. Many of those apps keep running in the background, using memory, checking for updates, and sitting in the system tray. Turning off the ones you don’t need won’t magically upgrade your PC, but it can make Windows much more responsive.
How to disable startup apps
Go to Settings > Apps > Startup, then toggle off apps you don’t need right away. Start with game launchers, music apps, chat apps, printer tools, and random updaters. I recommend leaving security software, driver utilities, cloud backup tools, and hardware control apps alone unless you know you don’t need them.
You can also press Ctrl+Shift+Esc, open Task Manager, choose Startup apps, right-click an app, and select Disable. Restart your PC and pay attention to the first few minutes after signing in. That’s where the improvement usually shows up first.
I stopped letting background apps pile up
Startup apps are only part of the problem. As someone who regularly installs and tests new tools, this is usually where my own PC gets messy. One launcher here, one updater there, a tray app I forgot about, a utility I only needed once, and suddenly Windows has a lot more running than I intended. I don’t go through Task Manager killing everything I don’t recognize. That’s a good way to break something. I focus on the apps I know I installed and no longer need running all day. If I’m testing a tool, it doesn’t automatically deserve a permanent spot in the background. Closing those extras makes Windows feel less cluttered and more responsive.
How to stop background apps from piling up
Press Ctrl+Shift+Esc to open Task Manager, then check the Processes tab. Look for apps you recognize but aren’t using, right-click them, and choose End task. Then check the system tray near the clock. Click the ^ arrow, right-click apps you don’t need running all day, and quit them. If an app keeps coming back, open its settings and turn off options like Launch at startup, Run in background, Keep running when closed, or Minimize to tray.
Storage cleanup made Windows feel less weighed down
Storage cleanup isn’t a magical way to make your PC feel faster, but it does make Windows feel less bogged down, especially if your drive is getting full. This is another problem I run into because I’m constantly installing apps, downloading installers, saving screenshots, testing tools, and forgetting about files I only needed once. Over time, that clutter adds up. Windows may not suddenly become faster on paper, but the whole PC feels easier to manage when I’m not digging through junk or running close to the edge on storage.
The easiest place to start is Settings > System > Storage. Let Windows scan your drive, then open Temporary files and review what it finds. I usually look for old update files, thumbnails, temporary files, Recycle Bin contents, and anything else I know I don’t need. Don’t blindly delete the content of your Downloads folder unless you’ve checked it first, because that’s where a lot of useful files tend to hide. For ongoing cleanup, I turn on Storage Sense from the same Storage page. You can set it to automatically remove temporary files, empty the Recycle Bin after a set period, and clean up unused files. I still like to review things manually every so often, but Storage Sense keeps the everyday junk from piling up again.
The best upgrade was removing friction
I still like fast hardware, and I’m not going to pretend a cleanup session can replace a real upgrade when a PC is truly underpowered. But this changed how I think about a slow Windows machine. Before I assume it needs new parts, I look for the small things making it feel worse than it is. When Windows starts cleaner, runs with fewer distractions, and lets me get to what I need faster, the whole PC feels better. Not because I made it dramatically more powerful, but because I stopped letting so many little things get in the way.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by HowtoGeek.
]]>According to MSN, this flaw affects multiple versions of Zoom products, all of which run on Windows clients. Given the severity of the now-patched flaw, Zoom has advised users of the video conferencing app to update their apps quickly to become immune to it.
Technical details of the vulnerability
Scoring 9.6/10 on the Common Vulnerability Scoring System(CVSS), with a CVE identifier of CVE-2025-49457, this Windows-only vulnerability is considered “critical.”
It uses defense-evasion tactics to obfuscate its identity so it gets trusted by the system. By loading itself into a Dynamic Link Library (DLL) path Windows already trusts, the malware abuses Windows’ inherent trust features and works its way deeper into the infected machine.
The flaw stems from how Zoom loads its DLL files. Zoom, which does not specify the path to its DLL files, left itself vulnerable to abuse, as attackers can drop malicious DLL files that appear identical to those used by Zoom. When Zoom requests a DLL file, Windows searches for it using its own search order, and if it happens to stumble upon the malicious file first, it loads it for Zoom.
The moment the DLL is loaded, the attacker does not need to have compromised Zoom and can abuse whatever privilege Zoom has on that Windows machine. It becomes even more concerning because many Zoom users run it in admin mode, which makes things easier for attackers.
MSN reports that, by abusing this flaw, attackers can “harvest sensitive files such as meeting recordings, contact lists, credentials, and similar. They could also pivot deeper into the corporate network, reaching domain controllers or high-value systems.”
For corporate organizations that have increasingly relied on Zoom for remote communications since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, this can lead to a snowball effect of additional cyberattacks.
Individuals are not excluded from the effects. With privilege escalation, attackers can modify system settings, add a backdoor to make them harder to remove, and steal individuals’ files.
Zoom’s response to the flaw
Zoom has since addressed the flaw by releasing a patch. However, users who use any of these Zoom products running below version 6.3.10 are still susceptible to it:
The patch focused on loading DLL files using their absolute paths, ensuring that when Zoom requests its DLL files, Windows looks for them in the right places, preventing the malicious DLL from getting accidentally loaded. Windows users need to update their Zoom applications to get the patch.
The app, which can use many system resources, can be lethal when compromised. As a result, Windows users who use Zoom should immediately update their apps. Additionally, auto-updates should be left enabled so future updates happen without manual input.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by TechRepublic.
]]>Alt+Tab is a multitasking dream
Alt+Tab only does one thing: it lets you switch between open applications. To use it, press Alt+Tab, then tap Tab to cycle through the visual strip of your active windows. Once you release the Alt key, it’ll open whichever app was selected.
What makes it so effective is how little effort it takes. Your hands never have to leave the keyboard, you aren’t hunting for icons, and you’re not dragging a cursor across the screen. Once it becomes a habit, it is noticeably faster than picking up your hand, moving it to the mouse, and then clicking.
There are a few variations on Alt+Tab command that make it even more useful. For example, you can press Alt+Shift+Tab to move backward through open apps, or hold Alt and tap Tab repeatedly to skim through windows. If you want something that doesn’t create a pop-up, press Alt+Esc to cycle through apps without the visual overlay, though it’s a bit harder to use.
Alt-tab shines whenever you’re doing a lot of typing. I use it most often when I’m taking notes in Joplin and a browser tab or copying text from one app to another.
Win+Tab pairs perfectly with Alt+Tab
Alt+Tab may be the most common short, but it works best when used in combination with other keyboard navigation shortcuts rather than in isolation.
Some of the most useful additions are the virtual desktop navigation shortcuts. Press Win+Tab to open Task View for a full overview of your windows and desktops. From here, you can create separate spaces for different kinds of work. I usually keep one open for research and reading, one for communication, and another for working on drafts or photo editing. Even better, you don’t have to stay in Task View to move between virtual desktops. You just press Ctrl+Windows+Left or Right Arrow to jump across desktops instantly. It’s like having multiple monitors without the hardware, and it pairs naturally with Alt+Tab.
Windows excels at window management
Window management shortcuts also play an important role once you transition to a keyboard-first approach. You can tap Windows+Arrow keys to snap windows to the side or corners of your screen, which makes it easy to compare documents. You can press Windows+D to clear everything and show the desktop in an instant, while Windows+M minimizes all windows and Windows+Shift+M brings them back.
To launch apps, I often use Windows+(Number). If you pin your most-used programs to the taskbar, this shortcut opens or switches to them immediately—no searching or clicking required. Alternatively, you can download and install Command Palette, which allows you to quickly search for apps to launch them. There are a few other small but important shortcuts that I use regularly:
Windows+E — Open Windows File Explorer
Windows+i — Opens the Settings App
Windows+L — Locks my PC
When you spend most of your day using the keyboard, the time savings add up more quickly than you’d think.
The keyboard is best for the Start Menu too
Once you’re in an all-keyboard workflow, switching to the mouse to search for apps and files is a very unwelcome break in the flow. Fortunately, the Start Menu can basically be used without a mouse. Tapping the Windows key opens the Start Menu, but you don’t need to actually click the search bar to begin searching—just start typing. It is a fast, effective way to find applications and files. I’d strongly recommend disabling Bing Search though. It noticeably slows down search results, which is exactly the opposite of what anyone wants.
Alternatively, you could download and install Command Palette, which is part of the PowerToys suite. Command Palette does everything that the Start Menu does, but it also does so much more. It can do math, run commands, launch applications, search for files, change system commands, and more. It is the perfect addition to Windows if you use it in a keyboard-first approach.
The keyboard can be faster than the mouse
Once you start using Alt+Tab and a few other keyboard shortcuts that pair well with it, it is difficult to go back to a mouse-centric interface. The keyboard—once you adjust—is often significantly faster, and I don’t have to interrupt my workflow to grab a mouse. It also translates indirectly to Linux operating systems, where you can make extensive use of a keyboard-first approach when you’re using the Terminal.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by HowtoGeek.
]]>This is why I adopted the Pomodoro method and ever since I have never been more productive with my time during the day. It’s become an internationally recognized productivity hack and you can find plenty of great free pomodoro apps for your phone, which is how I do it. However, Windows 11 has an advanced built-in productivity timer called “Focus” and it could change how you work, if you let it.
How FOCUS mode reduces distractions automatically
For the Pomodoro method to work, you need to have focused work sessions where you don’t think about anything other than the task at hand until the timer goes off. Then you rest for five minutes, and do it again, until you qualify for a long break. While these are called “Focus sessions” on Windows, the concept is the same. However, the big difference is that the Focus Timer is integrated with Windows itself. While you are in a focus session, Do Not Disturb mode is activated so you won’t get any notifications while you work. Badges on taskbar apps are hidden, and flashing on the taskbar is also disabled. The Clock app acts as the control center for Focus sessions. So it’s literally a one-click process after you’ve specified how long your sessions should be and whether you want automatic five-minute breaks to be a part of it. At the end of each session, you can take some time to deal with all the popups and messages that happened while you were being productive. You’ll never be out of touch for longer than a session lasts. If someone needs you more urgently, they need to do more than send an email or an instant message.
The underrated features that make it genuinely powerful
Most people who try Focus mode barely scratch the surface. The timer is just the beginning. I’ve already mentioned that you can schedule a break period to be part of the cycle, but you can also adjust the length of your Focus sessions. The Pomodoro method specifies a 25-minute focus session with a five-minute break, and then, after four sessions, you take a 30-minute break.
Personally, that doesn’t work for me. I prefer 45-minute sessions with 15-minute breaks and I never take a long break. It’s likely you’ll have your own specific preference too. A nice additional feature of the Windows take on Pomodoro is that the app keeps track of how much focused time you’ve used. So you can see how much productive time you’ve had in a given day or week and can see if you’re becoming more productive over time.
How to set up focus mode properly (so it actually works)
Let’s walk through getting Focus sessions set up the way you like it. The first place I’d go is System > Focus. Here you can set your default session duration, and I bet many of you don’t actually want “Do Not Disturb” on while in a session because of the nature of your work. So untick that box if you like. You can start your first session here if you like by clicking “Start focus session”, but that’s not the usual way to do it.
Apart from managing it from the notifications bar once opened, you should first open the Clock app. Focus sessions are one of the functions controlled in this app, and all you have to do is select it in the left hand bar. Note that you can also set to-do tasks right there, which is useful if you aren’t already using a to-do app. Once you click the play button, your session will start, and if you have Spotify linked like I do here, your selected playlist will start too, though you can stop it if you like. At the top right of the timer is a little button you can see here. Click that to pop the timer out as an always-on-top window while you work. I don’t like that, but some people may find it motivating.
Why most people ignore it—and why they shouldn’t
Whether you are a student, an office worker, or a freelancer, if you want to be productive with your time and avoid burnout, the Focus Session tool is an excellent way to do it. Unfortunately, there’s a real discovery problem with this tool. If you didn’t know it existed, you wouldn’t know it was there. It’s buried in the settings, or if you happen to open the clock app you’ll see it, but of all the annoying and useless things Windows 11 tries to sell you with popups, somehow Focus isn’t one of them.
For more information on solutions for running your businesses’ technology more efficiently, visit our website or contact Megan Meisner at mmeisner@launchpadonline.com or 813 448-7100 x210.
This was originally posted by HowtoGeek.
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